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| Teestha River |
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| Teestha River - Ice cold clear waters mixing with the other stream |
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| Sikkim Landscape |
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| Lachen chu - the river in Lachen that joins Teestha later on |
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| Teestha River |
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| Vimnala Waterfalls |
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| Landscape Sikkim |
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| Serene in this avatar - Teestha |
Showing posts with label Sikkim. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sikkim. Show all posts
Monday, November 19, 2012
Sikkim - On the road
These are just some snaps from the road as we traveled from one place to another in Sikkim. The tea estate is near Bagdogra the airport in West Bengal. In fact it is just at the turn to the airport ! :)
Sikkim - Tukula
This is a short trip from Nathula - this is a driver's point. That means - while the driver may take you to Nathula he will charge you extra for this point. We were lucky ; our driver was keen to show us places and we were keen to see places too.
On this day - the weather was very very clear. This place is about 9 kms from Nathula. He did warn us that sometimes the view may not be as clear so we could end up not seeing Kanchenjunga but like I mentioned before - we were lucky. We got a superb view of Kanchenjunga - the highest peak in India.
On this day - the weather was very very clear. This place is about 9 kms from Nathula. He did warn us that sometimes the view may not be as clear so we could end up not seeing Kanchenjunga but like I mentioned before - we were lucky. We got a superb view of Kanchenjunga - the highest peak in India.
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| Kanchenjunga at Tukula |
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| At Tukula |
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| Tukula with Kanchenjunga in the back |
Sikkim - Nathula Pass
For some reason - the two travel agents that we had contacted before we finally settled on the one we chose - were not very eager to take us to Nathula pass. I have no idea why. One went so far as to tell us that there was nothing over there. Now this may be true - for them ! I wanted to go - it was as simple as that. It is not every day that I go to an open Indo-China border - right ?
This is at a height of approximately 14,140 feet and currently trade happens between India and China via this route. According to our guide - they import Parle G biscuits in such quantities that there is sometimes shortage in Sikkim for these biscuits ! :) Guess it is time to invest in Parle G shares ... :) Indians import winter clothing articles.
I enjoyed my visit to Nathula although I did expect a "No man's land" here. But there is just a barbed wire - one side is India and the building on the other side is Chinese ! Well .. I liked it ! :)
I felt like doing silly things - like jumping over the wire to see what would happen or putting a foot below the barbed wire and touching "Chinese soil" :) But I managed to curb these quirky ideas :). Somehow with the army people over there - I did not think these crazy things would go down well ... :)
Behind the barbed wire is a boxed structure. If one is lucky Chinese soldiers may come to view in the picture although they tend to stay out of sight. We did get to see one Chinese soldier but he was beyond the place where we civilians were allowed to go.
As usual - we need permits for this place and this can be arranged by your travel agent. Also the pass is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
The air is less dense .. so do climb slowly up to the pass - no need to hurry at all unless you want to feel faint ! I swear one feels a new respect for our army people when one sees the kind of hostile environment they stay in.
There is a cafe here that serves Maggi , tea and momos ... :)
This is at a height of approximately 14,140 feet and currently trade happens between India and China via this route. According to our guide - they import Parle G biscuits in such quantities that there is sometimes shortage in Sikkim for these biscuits ! :) Guess it is time to invest in Parle G shares ... :) Indians import winter clothing articles.
I enjoyed my visit to Nathula although I did expect a "No man's land" here. But there is just a barbed wire - one side is India and the building on the other side is Chinese ! Well .. I liked it ! :)
I felt like doing silly things - like jumping over the wire to see what would happen or putting a foot below the barbed wire and touching "Chinese soil" :) But I managed to curb these quirky ideas :). Somehow with the army people over there - I did not think these crazy things would go down well ... :)
Behind the barbed wire is a boxed structure. If one is lucky Chinese soldiers may come to view in the picture although they tend to stay out of sight. We did get to see one Chinese soldier but he was beyond the place where we civilians were allowed to go.
As usual - we need permits for this place and this can be arranged by your travel agent. Also the pass is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
The air is less dense .. so do climb slowly up to the pass - no need to hurry at all unless you want to feel faint ! I swear one feels a new respect for our army people when one sees the kind of hostile environment they stay in.
There is a cafe here that serves Maggi , tea and momos ... :)
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| Enroute Nathula Pass - Tsomgo / Changu lake and Elephant Lake |
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| Enroute Nathula Pass - Tsomgo / Changu lake and Elephant Lake and one more lake |
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| The Indo-China gate through which trade happens |
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| Elephant lake |
Sikkim - Tsomgo Lake / Changu Lake
Tsomgo Lake also known as Changu lake is a lake enroute Nathula pass. When we went in November the lake looked really green and beautiful. The journey is very difficult and the roads are awful but this is to be expected since the soil in Sikkim is very loose and the state of the road is always in a flux. Landslides / Rocks / Water on the roads etc are not uncommon at all.
It does not help that the all roads in Sikkim have turns every 25 to 50 mts as mentioned before.
Normally one gets down here - clicks snaps and then moves on to Nathula. However foreigners are not allowed beyond this point. And ofcourse we need permits !
On the way back after seeing Nathula - one can relax , go on yak rides , click pictures in the traditional Sikkim dress.
Sometimes the people with yaks price about 100 Rs before the yak ride and then add another 100 - 150 after the ride is over - citing some small extra distance !
It does not help that the all roads in Sikkim have turns every 25 to 50 mts as mentioned before.
Normally one gets down here - clicks snaps and then moves on to Nathula. However foreigners are not allowed beyond this point. And ofcourse we need permits !
On the way back after seeing Nathula - one can relax , go on yak rides , click pictures in the traditional Sikkim dress.
Sometimes the people with yaks price about 100 Rs before the yak ride and then add another 100 - 150 after the ride is over - citing some small extra distance !
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| Tsomgo Lake / Changu Lake |
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| Tsomgo Lake / Changu Lake |
Sikkim - Yumthang Valley and Zero Point (Yumesamdong)
We were to travel from Lachen to Lachung which are about 3 hours apart and then relax in the hotel and see Zero point and Yumthang Valley the next day. Our guide however suggested that with the full day in hand - we could instead do the drive to Yumthang valley on the same day. The next day we could drive to Gangtok leisurely.
We were all for it - so off we went. The Yumthang valley is knows as the Valley of flowers. In summer the valley is supposed to be full of rhododendrons. In November the valley was bare. It has its own beauty so we were not complaining.
For us however the highlight was Zero point - Yumesamdong. Be aware that this point is normally not part of the itenary by default. One has to pay the driver extra to go to this point.
On reaching Zero point - we felt like we had come to the last outpost of civilization. It helped that we were early and the only ones there ! The shops were also closed. Not exactly high tourist season time. So imagine - the fresh cold winds and no other sound ... even though it was windy - there was not much to hear. With the majestic mountains and ice around - it was like being the only people in the world. Calm, quiet and a sense of insignificance - time seems to stand still here. Like nothing ever changes.
Zero point is where the road ends. There is no road beyond this. There is talk of a road being planned between Gurudongmar Lake and this point but no idea when it will finally happen.
The roads to this place are winding as usual but there are points from where one can see it .. we took pics of those as well as the contrast between the orange shrubs and the white mountains.
In November at least I think Zero point is must see - more beautiful than the valley. :) People do prefer to come here when it snows and can be traveled to to play snow games :)
We were all for it - so off we went. The Yumthang valley is knows as the Valley of flowers. In summer the valley is supposed to be full of rhododendrons. In November the valley was bare. It has its own beauty so we were not complaining.
For us however the highlight was Zero point - Yumesamdong. Be aware that this point is normally not part of the itenary by default. One has to pay the driver extra to go to this point.
On reaching Zero point - we felt like we had come to the last outpost of civilization. It helped that we were early and the only ones there ! The shops were also closed. Not exactly high tourist season time. So imagine - the fresh cold winds and no other sound ... even though it was windy - there was not much to hear. With the majestic mountains and ice around - it was like being the only people in the world. Calm, quiet and a sense of insignificance - time seems to stand still here. Like nothing ever changes.
Zero point is where the road ends. There is no road beyond this. There is talk of a road being planned between Gurudongmar Lake and this point but no idea when it will finally happen.
The roads to this place are winding as usual but there are points from where one can see it .. we took pics of those as well as the contrast between the orange shrubs and the white mountains.
In November at least I think Zero point is must see - more beautiful than the valley. :) People do prefer to come here when it snows and can be traveled to to play snow games :)
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| Enroute Zero Point |
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| Enroute Zero Point |
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| At zero point |
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| At Zero point |
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| Zero point |
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| The winding road to Zero point |
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| The Yumthang valley with its river |
Sikkim - Gurudongmar Lake
To travel to Gurudongmar Lake - one has to first travel to Lachen and then go to Gurudongmar Lake. This lake is at a height of 17100 feet. It is higher than the Pangang Tso Lake or TsoMoriri Lake in Leh-Ladakh area. However its sheer beauty make up for the fact that it involves almost 1.5 days of travel.
First of all permits are required to visit this place and foreigners are strictly not allowed. Permits are issued at Gangtok and your local tour agent can take care of this.
Start early. We started at 5 am but a few people do start at 4 am. Our driver was confident we would have ample time so we went with his schedule.
At this height the air is rarefied - it has less oxygen and it can be difficult to breathe. Be prepared for this. They say no medications really work for altitude sickness so no idea what you can do though.
On the way normally the jeeps stop at a place for morning breakfast (which is Maggi mostly ! ) and tea.
After 12 noon - the high altitude winds can be very cold and the wind chill adds to the freezing sensation. We thought we could have a picnic at this place but sadly could not due to the cold. The guides say that although one can go down to the lake coming back up might pose a problem. One is also not supposed to run about this place - the additional need for oxygen might leave you wheezing !
In case you still want to go down to the lake you can only do so in a clockwise fashion. The lake is considered sacred so anti clockwise is a no-no.
A picture is worth a thousand words - so I think the snaps say it all. The lake's sheer beauty is mesmerizing. I think this is a must visit place in North Sikkim.
First of all permits are required to visit this place and foreigners are strictly not allowed. Permits are issued at Gangtok and your local tour agent can take care of this.
Start early. We started at 5 am but a few people do start at 4 am. Our driver was confident we would have ample time so we went with his schedule.
At this height the air is rarefied - it has less oxygen and it can be difficult to breathe. Be prepared for this. They say no medications really work for altitude sickness so no idea what you can do though.
On the way normally the jeeps stop at a place for morning breakfast (which is Maggi mostly ! ) and tea.
After 12 noon - the high altitude winds can be very cold and the wind chill adds to the freezing sensation. We thought we could have a picnic at this place but sadly could not due to the cold. The guides say that although one can go down to the lake coming back up might pose a problem. One is also not supposed to run about this place - the additional need for oxygen might leave you wheezing !
In case you still want to go down to the lake you can only do so in a clockwise fashion. The lake is considered sacred so anti clockwise is a no-no.
A picture is worth a thousand words - so I think the snaps say it all. The lake's sheer beauty is mesmerizing. I think this is a must visit place in North Sikkim.
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| Gurudongmar Lake |
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| Gurudongmar Lake |
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| Yes those tiny dots are yaks - God knows what they can find to eat in this barren land |
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| Icy river enroute Gurudongmar Lake |
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| Road to Gurudongmar Lake |
Sikkim Itenary November 2012
We had a week with us and since we planned to emphasize more on the scenic views in Sikkim rather than the monasteries we looked at North Sikkim. Additionally while travelling in November is cold ( not as cold as December ) the weather is generally good ; hence we could go to Nathu La , Gurudongmar Lake.
The thing is - these places are always dependent on weather and it makes more sense to make the best of the clear skies of this season. Especially considering we have to travel a long way to get to Sikkim in the first place.
One thing we realized - in this season we have to plan to reach the places to see - early. At 6 pm all the places are completely dark and night has settled in. Plus the cold ofcourse !
Also we have noticed that Nathula is not included in many itenaries / expenses unless specifically mentioned. Do cross check. Also Nathula is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
I will re-iterate again - the roads of Sikkim are always in a state of flux since the soil is very loose soil. And the road winds every 25-50 mts without exception. You need a cast iron stomach and all distances can be multiplied by a factor of 4 - to take into consideration - bad roads, water on the roads, roads under construction etc.
Our itenary was as follows ... [ Sikkim Tour Itenary - click on Sikkim on the left hand side to get the break down of the places ]
Nov 11th : Bagdogra – Gangtok - This took us about 6 hours.
Nov 12th : Gangtok – Lachen - This drive also took us about 6 hours.
Nov 13th : Lachen – excursion to Gurudongmar Lake
Nov 14th : Lachen – Lachung - excursion to Zero point
Nov 15th : Lachung – Rumtek - this took us about 7 hours or so.
Nov 16th : Rumtek – Changoo Lake - Nathu La - Baba Mandir - Gangtok – Jorethang - This was the longest drive of our trip. The idea was to go closer to the airport. But I think this idea was not met with going to Jorethang. It was a waste of time as far as I was concerned. I would have preferred to go to Tukula view point and then onwards to Zuluk and then go Bagdogra airport the next day.
Bad planning by our trip planner. We reached our hotel at 8 pm. Way too long on the road.
Nov 17th : Jorethang – Bagdogra airport - About 5 hours
The thing is - these places are always dependent on weather and it makes more sense to make the best of the clear skies of this season. Especially considering we have to travel a long way to get to Sikkim in the first place.
One thing we realized - in this season we have to plan to reach the places to see - early. At 6 pm all the places are completely dark and night has settled in. Plus the cold ofcourse !
Also we have noticed that Nathula is not included in many itenaries / expenses unless specifically mentioned. Do cross check. Also Nathula is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
I will re-iterate again - the roads of Sikkim are always in a state of flux since the soil is very loose soil. And the road winds every 25-50 mts without exception. You need a cast iron stomach and all distances can be multiplied by a factor of 4 - to take into consideration - bad roads, water on the roads, roads under construction etc.
Our itenary was as follows ... [ Sikkim Tour Itenary - click on Sikkim on the left hand side to get the break down of the places ]
Nov 11th : Bagdogra – Gangtok - This took us about 6 hours.
Nov 12th : Gangtok – Lachen - This drive also took us about 6 hours.
Nov 13th : Lachen – excursion to Gurudongmar Lake
Nov 14th : Lachen – Lachung - excursion to Zero point
Nov 15th : Lachung – Rumtek - this took us about 7 hours or so.
Nov 16th : Rumtek – Changoo Lake - Nathu La - Baba Mandir - Gangtok – Jorethang - This was the longest drive of our trip. The idea was to go closer to the airport. But I think this idea was not met with going to Jorethang. It was a waste of time as far as I was concerned. I would have preferred to go to Tukula view point and then onwards to Zuluk and then go Bagdogra airport the next day.
Bad planning by our trip planner. We reached our hotel at 8 pm. Way too long on the road.
Nov 17th : Jorethang – Bagdogra airport - About 5 hours
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Sikkim - Travel Tips
Sikkim travel tips ..... where do I begin ?
- The roads of Sikkim are truly tortuous !! I mean this literally .. the road has turns on average every 25 - 50 meters. Unless you have a cast iron stomach - this is going to be a real problem when you travel. There is winding .... and there is "winding". Sikkim is tightly tightly wound ! :)
- The soil of Sikkim is very loose - so the roads are always half eroded due to landslides / rockslides / water erosion / road being done etc. Always the road state is in a flux ! :) BRO works through out the year to keep the roads clear.
- Due to the above reasons - distances of even 20 kms are a long long journey. Did I mention tortuous roads that feel torturous ? :)
- In November - it is very cold. Temperatures go to minus so yes one needs lots and lots of warm clothing. Don't go with what the Sikkim guides say - they think the temperature is not too cold in November ! :)
- North Sikkim needs permits. The travel agents take care of this - but you need approx 6 PP snaps and 6 ID proof xeroxes. Yes even for a child. We took our baby's school ID. They seem to prefer Voter ID for adults!
- Out of 6 days we felt we actually saw points of interest only on 3 days. Travel to the places takes time. Not that the scenery is not pretty but still.
- North Sikkim - altitude sickness is very prevalent. Be prepared.
- Our driver mentioned that for every itenary - there is an extra driver's point that can be taken to by the driver on extra cost. For e.g. - on the Yumthang valley drive - travel to Zero point is optional and extra. On the NathuLa drive - travel to Kachenjunga view area is optional and extra. Do your research.
- BSNL is the only service provider up in the mountain and that too only to a point.
- Since Nathu La is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - if you are going to this place on the last day of your itenary you may want to consider driving from there onwards to Zuluk and then go to Bagdogra airport / JBP railway station. You need permit for Zuluk so you should take care of this before. We came back to Gangtok which I felt could have been avoided and instead could have made a circular route with Zuluk in the fray.
- Places to see include points in West Sikkim and Bhutan which can be accessed by road. We felt - those areas could be done in another trip in which we would include Darjeeling too. This is a personal preference.
- Unless otherwise mentioned - driver is not available for the full day.
- Try and include meals in your hotel stays - there are not many options on the road other than Maggi and tea.
- I would definitely recommend home stay - Hidden Forest Resort in Gangtok and Teen Taley Eco Resort ( home stay again ) in Rumtek. They were fantastic.
- And last but not the least our driver - Mr. Ketan Pradhan - 94343-56528 / 94348-69042 who is associated with Alpine Nature Beyond was wonderful. Safe driver , very interested in actually showing us places and very punctual. He is the best driver / guide I have come across so far.
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